Historic Tomar

Jul 9, 2022 | Days in the Sun

When we get away from our big house renovation, we travel around Portugal in search of the treasures that this rich and exciting country has to offer. Today we travelled to historic Tomar in Portugal’s Centro Region.

Praça da República (Republic Square) and Paços do Concelho (17th century Town Hall), in Tomar. The bronze statue represents Gualdim Pais, founder of the town.

Tomar and the Order of the Knights Templar

Tomar is in the Ribatejo region of central Portugal; nestled on the banks of the River Nabão. The town was founded by the Knights Templar in 1160 under the guidance of Gualdim Pais (Grand Master of the Portuguese Knights). The town’s main attraction is undoubtably the Knights Templar story and the impressive Convento de Cristo (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), but there are many other places to visit and enjoy in and around Tomar, also worthy of a mention.

Being the typical ‘mad dogs and English persons’ that we are (we’re getting better), we duly arrived in Tomar at around 11:30am. We’d had a two hour drive to Tomar from our casa in Mórtagua and with no proper breakfast consumed that morning, we arrived hungry and thirsty and so planned to find a place to sit, eat and relax and prepare for the day.

What we hadn’t planned for though, was that we would be exploring Tomar for the first time on our hotest day in Portugal so far.

When we arrived in the morning it was already approaching 34°C (We’re not complaining, it was actually really beautiful and we really are lucky to be enjoying this wonderful climate and new lifestyle).

We parked at the town’s central car park (Parque de Estracionamento Subterraneo). It’s decent value; secure, underground parking for €6 per day and was the perfect location to start out from. Julie’s mum is travelling and staying with us at present, and it should be noted that if you are intending to walk up to the Convento de Cristo, it’s a long, uneven, cobbled walk and not easy on the feet or legs – even for the fitter bodies amongst us!

And with the added challenge of the heat of the day, it can be quite a strain. Take your time and plenty of water. There are some really pretty views of Tomar and the surrounding countryside to view as you walk up the meandering path. A small car park is located at the top of the hill near the Convento entrance if you need to consider mobility access. I’m sure it will get busy in high season, but it was quiet today (more about Convento de Cristo later though).

Ponte Velha & Water Wheel

First, we entered the old historic town of Tomar via its main bridge, Ponte Velha, located next to the Convent of Santa Iria. It is still today one of the main ways to access the beautiful old town streets, shops, cafes, restaurants and museums.

Before crossing the bridge, we stopped to view a wooden (probably Roman) water wheel located at the entrance to the Mauchão Park. The park itself offered cool shade under the willow trees by the river as we orientated ourselves. There was a medieval festa being prepared in the park, with stalls and period costumes on show but unfortunately we were not in Tomar long enough this time to enjoy the experience.

Ponte Velha, Tomar
Old Roman Water Wheel at Tomar

Festa dos Tabuleiros

A side note – every four years the Festa dos Tabuleiros (Festival of the Trays) or Festa do Divino Espírito Santo (Feast of the Holy Spirit), takes place in Tomar. Paulina, a very friendly and welcoming lady who served us in her restaurant, highly recommend visiting Tomar during these festivites. So we’ll be back.

Eating out as a vegan in Portugal

I’ll just mention the resturant at this point. We ate an early lunch at the Rua Direita Restaurant. Being vegans, finding food in Portugal is often a challenge. I have to say though, and I did tell Paulina, this was probably the best vegan dish I have had so far in Portugal. What I loved about Rua Direita is that they offered a more traditional menu but with the meat products simply replaced with seitan or mushrooms (cogumelos) etc. It’s so easy to do and I’m always amazed that more restaurants don’t do it.

This was really tasty food. I enjoyed the vegan Empãdao de Alheira, traditionally a dish of pork sausage stuffing, vegatables and smoked paprika under a potato puré and topped with olives. Julie had Cogumelos à Bulhão Pato – normally a clam dish and Jackie (Julie’s mum) enjoyed a lovely, lovely, lovely salad with delicious batatas fritas. That’s her content face right there 🙂

Julie's mum enjoying her lunch :)

Walking out of the old town

I had mentioned earlier that one of the main reasons to visit Tomar was to take in the World Heritage site of the Convento de Cristo. Following our lunch, we took a slow walk through some of the pretty back streets, narrow passages and alleyways. It was quiet and sultry. The early afternoon sun was now really burning and the air was dry. I love Portugal like this.

The old town buildings lining these streets, as in most old Portuguese towns and villages, are full of colourful architecture and deep textures.  In this heat you can’t just skip through, you have to shuffle along taking in all the authenticity.

There are many beautiful solid wood entrance doors along these streets. All with fine carved detailing and rich, polished furniture . It was a real busman’s holiday treat walking out of the old town!

Tomar Entrance Door
A Grafica Tomar old town streets
Colour and texture in Tomar
Traditional Portugues green door in Tomar

Convento de Christo

On the outskirts of town, we’d reached Avenida Dr. Vieira Guimarães. This old cobbled road now takes you (on foot) to the top of the hill and the main entrance to the Convento de Christo.

Unfortunately for the present time, this is as far as we can go on our tour today – it was closed!

It was a real disappointment.

There is a lot of renovation work happening in Tomar at present. It’s understandable. The country, as in the rest of the world, is only just coming out of lockdown rules and businesses, attractions etc. are all working hard to bring themselves up to operational standards again. It’s very early in the season too so I guess we can put this one down to bad planning and bad timing.

We were unable to enter the grounds of the Convent de Christo and other churches in Tomar, so rather than get a few ‘cheap’ pictures from the outside, we plan to visit again and write up a more comprehensive account of the main attraction!

Here are just a couple of images showing the walk up. Great views of Tomar from here.

Slightly deflated, and very hot, we headed back down into Tomar old town for a cool glass of cerveja before heading back to collect the car with a view to visiting a famous aqueduct before we headed home.

Cobbled street to the Convento de Cristo
Tomar Convento de Christo

Aqueduto dos Pegões Altos

Just a short drive from Tomar (10 minutes) is the site of the Aqueduto dos Pegões Altos. This 6km long aquaduct could easily be mistaken for structure of Roman origin but it was in fact built in the 17th Century to supply water to the Convento de Christo. It was designed by the architect Filipe Terzi, who was also responsible for other notable structures in Portugal.

The aquaduct connects the Convento de Christo with Pegões on the outskirts of Tomar. Here there were four natural springs.

The structure is some 30 meters at its highest point and contains approximately 160 arches. It’s one of the largest aquaducts in Portugal and certainly worth adding to your Tomar trip inventory.

Enjoy the view and watch this space for an update when we get to go back to Tomar. There’s plenty more to see and explore and we’ll be sharing it all with you.

Até mais tarde!

Aqueduto dos Pegões Altos

OK, let's hear it!

We have so much to learn, discover and enjoy here in beautiful Portugal.

Please share your comments and recommendations with us and be a part of our big house renovation journey.

Julie & Gary

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